Presley Tall Perches

I've put together some photos on the Presley style tall perches.  I have used these perches for about 30 years.  I NEVER leave the hawk's un-attended on them.  But, the 'jump up' effect of these perches really help keep hawks fit.  Red-tails and Harris' Hawks take to them readily and learn very quickly on them.

Presley  ‘Tall’ Rotating  Perch dimensions: 

Overall length  8 Feet, seven feet above ground 2 feet inserted into the ground.  (one length of 1/2 inch round rolled steel). 

Diameter of top ring (inside)  14 inches, one piece of bent steel, welded to pipe at top

Ball bearing is inserted between the welded pipe and top at ring. 

Length of 3/4/ inch pipe on ring.  7” on top pipe, 8” on bottom 

IMPORTANT:   Ball Bearing at top of inside pipe on perch, packed with axle grease. 

Width of welded locking washer on ring.  1 inch

Height of perch from ground with prongs inside ring:  7 feet. 

Length of tines in ground:  Center 24 inches,    sides   12 inches. 

Height of half moon from cross piece on ground,   7 inches, 

Width of Half moon at bottom  (1 piece that goes into the ground.   13-1/2/ inches. 

Length of bent half moon for prongs in ground.:  3 feet. 

Materials:   ½ inch rolled steel,  ball bearing, ¾ inch pipe.   Welded rings (2)  

Making Paracord leashes

I make paracord leashes and jesses. I have included photos of how I make the leashes. Jesses are just a shorter version of the same materials and tools. But, when I make the paracord jesses. I make the loop either of two sizes. 1/3 inch for field jesses, 10-2 inches for mews jesses that take a traditional swivel. I now use field jesses all of the time, rather than mews jesses. For the swivel, I use a number eight Sampo coastlock swivel. Which I change each year. I also use a steel trigger snap for fastening the hawk to the perch. I put a hair elastic on the trigger snap as extra strength. I change the hair elastic about once a month. When I tie off and melt the jesses. I leave at least 3/4 inch of extra para cord to melt OVER the knot. I hold the jess with forceps or hemostats to keep the hot liquid melted nylon from burning my fingers (have a couple of scars from that). With leashes, I make sure again that both the inner and outer loop are melted together to make sure they do not come apart. With the jesses, I coat the knot with NOBITE nail polish, to prevent picking by the raptor. Helps reduce the picking greatly. If the bird likes to pick at all of the jess, I coat the entire jesses with NOBITE. Helps a lot with picking. Some birds I need to remove the jess all entirely when in their mews. I just use a bronze trigger snap to hook directly to the grommet to take them from the mews. I secure the jess then thread the para cord cord and attach the Sampo coastlock swivel.

Materials needed: Upholstry needles, 10 inch minimum is the best. File to round the point of the needle. Candle and lighter for burning the ends. Paracord (550 is the best). Knitting needles to stretch the hole where the loop feeds through.

How I draw the loops is this. I use an upholstry needle about 10 inch long minimum. I dull the point with a crystal nail file (see photos) to a rounded point. I take the inner cords out of the material and save some for my drawstring.

For the leashes, I make them about 30-36 inches long. So, that means I need about 60-70 inches of material. I fold the leash in half. I fold the cord in half, leaving about one side six inches longer than the other. I then leave some for the loop, about 3 inches for a leash. Stretch the entry hole with the knitting needle. DO NOT EVER CUT OR MELT the entry hole. The stretching of the opening keeps the strength and integrity of the cord intact. I then thread the SHORTER part through the longer part of the leash. The leash expands when one is being threaded inside the other. I 'massage' the entry hole with my hands at the entry hole, starting with the needle, knot then the rest of the inner leash. You will have to practice with this part to get the right 'feel'. Some people wear leather gloves, to keep the wear and tear on the hand. I step on the extra threaded cord (NOT THE NEEDLE) to get extra leverage when starting the inner loop. I made 20 leashes in a 3 hour period, while watching TV one afternoon. I then slide the inner loop through, knot the leash about 6 inches down to hole the loops in place until I melt and burn them.

Creance for training

There are two types of creance used for training raptors. One is a weighted drag line, the other is a 'zip line' or 'slider'. I personally prefer the control of the 'slider' type for training. It is paracord, very strong and lightweight. It is on a notched piece of wood, with a slider ring attached to an 8 foot piece of paracord. I have two lengths and weights on the slider cord. one is lightweight for small raptors, such as kestrels and up to 500 grams. That ring is a simple split ring used for key rings. The larger is a metal welded for the red-tail and Harris hawks. The main slider cord is attached to two different T posts in my yard. Where the bird can fly back and forth during sessions. I have a ring on each end of the main slider cord to prevent it from sliding off. I've used this system since I began in falconry in 1974. I like the control it has over where a hawk flies, and how lightweight and portable it is for training.

Lightweight equipment for kestrels

I have 3 kestrels, two AK's and a EK, male, yes, it is really hard to keep a tail on those guys. I've found the best way to preserve the tail is blocking them out with a 2nd perch to hop to.

My equipment is this: Size 00 grommet, thin kangaroo anklets, the jesses are a single piece of knotted, melted, para cord, about 4 inches long. The end of the jess where the swivel attaches is a melted hole (made with a large, heated blanket pin) where a Coastlock Sampo, size 5 or 6 attaches the clip through the hole. Kestrels are equipment pickers, so I paint all of their equipment with NOBITE nail polish. Really keeps the picking down. I use a size 00 vice grip pliers setter I got from Northwoods a long time ago. They also wear a tiny merlin bell and small ID tag on one leg, attached with a cable tie. The cable tie is inserted into a piece of plastic tubing to keep the cable tie from being pulled tight, again painted with NOBITE nail polish.

Talon Salon Coping Block Perch

Materials needed: Flower Pots (either plastic (for traveling) or ceramic/terracotta). Make sure flower pots selected do not have a ‘rolled under’ edge. This edge snags on swivels.

4-5 inch for small raptors

7-9 inches for medium raptors.

10-12 inch for large raptors (eagles and eagle owls).

Quick (Not Rapid) set mortar, Ratio:  2 parts mortar, 1 part 

Vermiculite (soil conditioner).

3/4 inch PVC pipe, cut to height of perches.

Garden trowel, Garden ‘rake’ for mixing and handling mortar
Mortar pan or dish pan for mixing mortar.

Coffee filters

Sturdy long rubber gloves.

Astroturf (long leaf type).

Hot glue gun or Gorilla glue. (Practice first with Gorilla glue).

2 gallon bucket for water.  
                                                  Rags for wiping up execess. 

Instructions:

Take flower plot, drill or enlarge hole sufficient in size for PVC pipe to fit snugly through the hole, and be parallel with the surface underneath. Tape top of pipe to prevent mortar mixture from filling pipe. If the flower pot has more than one drain hole, use a piece of coffee filter to prevent mortar mixture from draining out of bottom drainage holes.

Dry ingredients: Mix mortar and vermiculite thoroughly 2:1 ratio with garden rake. Add water to make the mixture the consistency of oatmeal. Mix water small amounts at a time. The mixture should be moldable, but not runny. With garden trowel, scoop mixture into prepared pots, small amounts at a time to insure that there are no air holes left. When filled, use gloved hands to shape the top of the pot to a dome shape about 1 inch above pot with a ‘flat spot': about in the center for the hot glued Astroturf pad. Wipe excess off sides with rag rinsed in bucket of water.

Let set for 24-48 hours in a dry location, facing the south or west.

When dry:  Cut a piece of Astroturf in a circle, undersized for the pot. Leave about a 2 inch rim of mortar for talons to scrape. Then use hot glue gun or gorilla glue (practice first), glue Astroturf to pot.

Portable T perch for hunting large fields

Often, we are in a field with no trees or perches for the birds to stay in position. Falconers have devised a T post for the birds to have a good vantage point in the field. Mine is PVC on a telescoping paint pole. Extends to about 8 feet tall.  I use the Shurlock brand paint poles.  For tall abatement work, I also have the 6-12 foot and the 8-16 foot poles.  All modified the same way. I prefer the Shurlock brand as they are durable and the tab to raise the perch up and down is easy to use with one hand.   I use the 4-8 foot one for carrying in the field. Materials I use:   1 inch (schedule 40)  PVC (with the 'bell' on the end).  The 'bell  holds the T connection in the center for the other two sections for the hawks to land on on and does not spin when the hawks land.   I drill all the T post all the way through the factory drilled hole.  I then carefully measure where the hole is and drill the PVC bell all the way through.  To lock to bell top on I use a zip tie.  Then the other two sections, each 2 feet long fit into the T. I have glued or screwed these two so they do not come apart in the field.   I cap the ends of the PVC.   Then I put Astroturf on top for the hawks to land on.  I now wrap it completely around the perch.  I also put a couple of ball bungies on the T post to hold food tidbits and a flashlight to illuminate the tidbit when flying hawk in low light conditions or for recovery during night abatement work.  My hawks are trained to fly into their crates (vari kennels) which also have a flashlight inside them illuminating a food treat.  This is essential for nighttime abatement work.  In the center of the T.  I put section of Velcro and have made a 4 oz cup where I tidbit the hawks and give them water.  They really like having access to water and during a hot abatement assignment.  They will actually fly to the T post for a drink.  The T post idea for falconry is a new tool and I've found it as essential as a lure in the field.  

Cable, electrical ties for falconry equipment

The photo of the red-tailed hawk 'Buster' shows the system I use for cable ties for falconry equipment attachment. Note the clear tubing to keep the cable tie from getting smaller on the bird. With birds that pick equipment, I use 'NO BITE' nail polish by Orly. It tastes TERRIBLE and works to reduce or even eliminate equipment picking. Also, note the 'ring' on the cable tie, very convienient for attaching telemetry for flying.